If you’re just starting out on your surfing adventure, you may have some anxiety about learning to ride the waves in Maui. Don’t let this normal apprehension stop you from experiencing the exhilaration of surfing. Learning to surf in Maui is a very fun and satisfying experience and may not be as hard as it at first appears. Remember that you will also have our experienced surfing instructors close by to assist you along the way. But below are some helpful Maui surfing tips to get you started on your voyage.
The right surfboard and surfing gear. Beginners usually do better with longer surfboards. A longer, thicker, and wider board will be more stable and easier to paddle. Generally, a longboard that is about 7 feet 8 inches or more will be good for even a petite surfer to start with. A wider and thicker softboard, or foam board, will float easier, giving you a smoother ride to paddle and stand-up on.
It’s a good idea to have a leash attached to your surfboard to
avoid losing your board in the waves. A wet suit will help to act as a rash
guard and shield your skin from rubbing against the board.
Find the right surfing location.
It’s best for beginners to stay away from the larger and rougher waves. Beaches
with sandy, straight shores, nice sandbars, and the least amount of reefs and
rocks are best. In these calmer areas, waves will reach about 3 feet high,
which are good for beginners. The two areas we give surfing lessons at in Maui
are great for both beginners as well as more advanced longboard surfers.
Lying on your surfboard.
What position is surfboard’s nose in when it lies by itself on the water? When
you lie on the board, the nose should still lie flat on the water, just somewhat
lower. If you lie on the board and the nose falls below the water, this is called
“poking tako,” and you must slide back gently until the board once again lies
flat on the water. Too much weight on the back of the board will cause the nose
to stick out of the water, which will also stop you from successfully catching
a wave. So, you will have to find a balance point or “sweet spot” on which to
lie on the board. After you find this balance point, notice where your chin is
in relation to the board. This spot will serve as a good reference point of
where to lie to balance your board.
Paddling for the
wave. It’s best to paddle hand over hand, moving left and then right. This
will allow you to keep up a steady speed in the water, which will make it
easier and less exhaustive for you to paddle to the break. While paddling,
remember to keep your body rigid. This will mean keeping your head up and using
your core muscles to stroke rather than just your arms. Also remember to keep
both legs on the board and not drag them on the sides.
Standing on the
board. When first learning to stand on your board, it’s best to rehearse on
the beach first. Lie on the board on your chest with your head up, looking
forward. Place your hands on the board parallel to your chest and grab the rail
of the board. Push your upper body up and at the same time, bend your feet
under you. Make sure your feet are on the stringer, or center of the board, to
help keep your weight centered. When you first pop up, remember to keep your
“okole” or rear end low. Continue to look forward as you begin to stand upright
and get your balance. Use your arms by pointing forward or outward for balance.
Falling off the
board. Always protect your head, when you fall of your board. Try to stay
under water for a little longer than necessary to allow your board to land on
the water’s surface and not on you. When you come up, try to face the approaching
waves and look for your board’s whereabouts immediately.
Remember proper
surfing etiquette. The first standing surfer that is closest to the peak of
the break has the right of way on that wave, and so other surfers paddling for
that wave should stop and yield to him or her. This means that as a surfer you
will need to get out of the way of the surfer riding the wave whenever
possible, even if you must go into a breaking wave or behind the rider.
If you are paddling out for a wave and a surfer is paddling
out toward you, make eye contact with that person and specify the direction you
intend to go in reference to them. Always show respect for fellow surfers or
stand-up paddlers.
These are just a few basic surfing tips that will hopefully help
you overcome any initial fear of surfing in Maui. Our professional, local Maui surfing
instructors can teach you everything you need to know to successfully learn
how to surf. Just keep practicing, and you’ll discover a love of surfing that
only the shores of Maui can teach you.
